The economy, measured by conventional indicators, is weaker. More than half of the land is now protected. Haida Gwaii, the misty islands, how dramatically they have changed over the last years! The multinational timber companies that once dominated the economy and dictated public policy on this archipelago that sits off the coast of British Columbia are gone. Linda’s native name means “the one who sits regally.” To be with her really is to be with Haida royalty, and for this I am grateful. Finally, we visit Balance Rock, a remnant of the Ice Age that looks precariously posed on the coast, but is in fact, firmly in place and immovable.I knew something magical was in store when I arrived at the dock with National Geographic Expeditions in Queen Charlotte and met Linda Tollas, a Haida interpreter and the great-granddaughter of Susan Williams, a legendary matriarch who died at the age of 109. Mary's Spring where, if desired you can taste the fresh spring water which, according to local lore, a drink from the well will bring you back to Haida Gwaii later in life. We head to Tlell, home to a variety of local artisans and take time at leisure to visit their shops and learn of their craft first hand. A sapling was saved when the original tree grew and had been nurtured and grown at the Port Clements Memorial Park which we will visit after our walk along the trail. The tree was cut down by a by a protester in 1997 leading to a Canada-wide outcry. The trail is named after the Golden Sitka Spruce that grew at the end of the trail for nearly 300 years and had a mutation causing the spruce to grow needles of a golden yellow colour. Nearby is a short, easy hike from the museum to the Golden Spruce Trail. Travelling a short distance to Port Clements, an active forestry area, we visit the Port Clements Museum and learn about the past conditions of the forest industry in Haida Gwaii.
At the end of this day, we will return to Queen Charlotte City. With an interpreter of the museum we enjoy an interpretive tour of the facility followed by time to experience the exhibits at leisure. The Haida Gwaii Museum is a magnificent showcase of the Haida People, culture and way of life, highlighting the traditions of all fourteen Haida Clans. Our stop today is a visit to the magnificent Haida Heritage Centre. 10 km east of Masset is an easily walkable boardwalk trail that allows access to a blowhole as well as to Tow Hill, both important landmarks in Naikoon Provincial Park.
We will then drive to the village of Masset located at the entrance to the Masset Inlet, an important centre for sport fishing. We strongly suggest bringing a pair of binoculars and your camera and reading up in advance about the natural and human history of Haida Gwaii before you start to gain an in-depth knowledge and appreciation of the landscape you are travelling through. A walk along the East Beach Trail is a great experience. Part of the traditional territory of the Haida people, the park figures prominently in their culture and history and holds many sites of cultural importance as well as historic villages and important traditional food gathering locations throughout the park. We head north to the village of Tlell and the south entrance of the Naikoon Provincial Park. Along the way, our guides will incorporate a combination of storytelling, songs and/or local history, giving guests a unique glimpse into our heritage. We pass through the Laskeek Bay area, where we visit Ḵay (sea lion) rookeries, explore the shoreline, search for taan (bear) and cruise the seas looking for whales. Today, the poles which remain and the depressions of several longhouses give you a sense of the former grandeur of the village, splayed out along Skedans Bay. Skedans was a village of 26 to 30 longhouses at its height. Perhaps one of the highlights of our Haida Gwaii tour will be this day tour to the village of Skedans or Ḵ'uuna Llnagaay, in the Haida language. On our way, our Haida guides will give us insights into this unique culture through storytelling, songs and talks on local history, Haida heritage and how they protect the land and waters. The site is only accessible by water or air, so we will depart early to take a boat ride along the eastern coastline of Haida Gwaii in order to reach the site. Located on Anthony Island, the World Heritage Site of Ninstints, allows you walk through the remains of a Haida village and the largest collection of carved totem poles in their original locations. Perhaps one of the highlights of our Haida Gwaii tour will be this day tour to Ninstints or SG̱ang Gwaay Llnagaay, in the Haida language.